? about x10 floodcam

? about x10 floodcam

Post by Oz Scot » Thu, 10 Jul 2003 05:25:14

Can it be connected to an x10 wall switch to be used as a normal light
switch and still function as a security light regardless off the wall switch

? about x10 floodcam

Post by David N. Clyde, Jr » Thu, 10 Jul 2003 09:58:51

As I remember it, no you can't.  I went through the manual and there was
nothing mentioned about actually using the unit as a normal flood light.


Quote:> Can it be connected to an x10 wall switch to be used as a normal light
> switch and still function as a security light regardless off the wall
> "position'?


? about x10 floodcam

Post by John » Thu, 10 Jul 2003 10:43:35

From: http://www.hometoys.com/

      PR511 motion sensor floodlight 24 hour motion sensing and Christmas light

About once a month, someone asks in comp.home.automation how to make PR511
exterior motion sensor floodlights provide 24 hour motion sensing but only turn
the floodlights on with motion after dark. This can be accomplished without any
hardware modifications (thus preserving UL listing) with the addition of a $10
switch (somewhat more expensive if suitable house wiring unavailable). The
result is the following improvements over normal PR511 operation:

  1) 24 hour motion sensing X-10 on and off signal for automation
  2) dusk to dawn (or any other desired time period) floodlight operation upon
motion sensing.
  3) quiet motion detection (normal operation of PR511 sounds loud click from
120volt relay upon motion sensing, which draws undue attention to security
lights and sounds less professional)
  4) flash-free motion sensing during times when floodlights not set to turn on
(such as daylight hours).
  5) Automated Christmas light control with no additional automation hardware!
  6) stand alone or automation controller controlled operation.
  7) programmable synchronous multi-unit operation if desired similar to Leviton
model but at no additional expense (at less cost total than the Leviton unit!).
  8) reprogrammable behavior from the ground (change controller program and/or
X-10 switch addresses without accessing motion sensor, which may be 20 feet in
the air).
  9) dimmable floodlights (e.g. full bright when motion detected, half bright
for house accent lighting).

The key to these automation friendly features is recognition that the motion
sensor floodlight assembly is really a separate motion sensor with X-10 and
120volt switched outputs and an independent dual floodlight assembly in a single
mounting plate. All the above benefits can be achieved simply by wiring them to
house power as two independent devices and using an inexpensive X-10 wall switch
to complete the operation. Specifically, the motion sensor should be wired to
unswitched power (line) for continuous motion sensing and the floodlights wired
to an inexpensive X-10 wall switch or inline module if wiring requires. In
either case, this leaves an unused X-10 controlled relay output of the motion
sensor, which can be used to provide X-10 controlled Christmas light power at a
more convenient location than standard exterior outlets without requiring the
purchase of X-10 switched outlets. This is in contrast to the approach of making
a hardware modification to the PR511 circuit board (if possible) to achieve the
desired motion sensing and floodlight operation. Benefits of this approach over
the hardware modification include Christmas light automation control and
preservation of UL listing on all devices. Another alternative is no
modification or special wiring, but set the light sensitivity for 24 hour
operation and have an intelligent controller turn the floodlights off as soon as
they turn on (during the day). This results in a flash which draws attention to
the floodlights, just as the relay click does, which significantly reduces its
value for security applications.

Operation options (set "this unit" switch to dark in all cases):

  stand alone operation (no controller): set light sensitivity as desired and
enable +1 motion and +5 dusk/dawn switches. Set X-10 switch to address of
PR511+1. Motion sensor will signal floodlights as though direct wired. Operation
will be much quieter with no relay clicking. This mode is especially useful when
controller is unavailable, such as during construction of a new residence, or
when floodlights are purchased/installed prior to purchase/installation of a
home controller.

  synchronous operation (no controller): configure as above, but use same
address for multiple PR511s and address + 1 for all switches. All lights will
operate in unison if any see motion.

  24 hour motion/dark floodlight operation with controller: set light
sensitivity for continuous operation. Set X-10 switch address to unrelated
address. Program controller to watch for PR511+1 on signal and if dark send on
to X-10 switch. Either watch for PR511+1 off signal (setting on time as desired)
or use timer in controller to turn off light (preferably resetting timer each
time new motion detected). In the later case, on time should be set for 30
seconds for maximum reliability (repeat signals in case missed, but avoid
flooding power line). Other actions associated with exterior motion (such as
chime) can be configured in controller.

  controlling Christmas lights: Simply send on and off commands as desired to
the PR511's address, which now controls the switched outlet connected to it --
to which Christmas lights may be attached without running wires down to a
near-ground outlet. No X-10 outlet required!

Wiring details:

NOTE: 120 volt house wiring should only be done by a qualified electrician and
conforming to the relevant electrical codes. The below wiring details may be
discussed with your electrician. If you decide to make these modifications
yourself, you do so at your own risk.

The cheapest solution requires that both switched and unswitched power be
available at the fixture location. The cleanest solution (which you can specify
with new construction or may be lucky enough to already have) is to have 14
gauge / 3 conductor romex (electrical cable) between your switch and fixture
location (line, load, neutral and ground, aka unswitched power, switched power,
neutral and ground).

Retrofit options:

  Replacing existing wiring with 14/3 cable may be practical if your switch
location is a short straight shot from your fixture location (for instance
higher on the other side of the wall containing the interior switch).

  If 14/3 wire between switch and fixture is impractical, unswitched power may
be available to the fixture from another source, such as when fixture location
is accessible from an unfinished area, like an attic.

  If you can't get both switched and unswitched power to the fixture, you'll
need to use the existing wiring to bring unswitched power to the fixture and add
an inline module (dimming fixture relay).

Switch Wiring (after shutting off all relevant power):

  Replace your floodlight switch with an X-10 wall switch (if line, load, and
neutral all available at fixture).

  If you have 3 conductor wire from switch to fixture, connect the unused
conductor to line in the switch box via a wire nut. This will bring unswitched
power for the motion sensor up to the fixture. Typical 14/3 is color coded
black, red, white. I'd recommend using black for line and red for load (output
of the switch). Electrical codes may specify which to use.

  If you can't get both line and load to the fixture, take out the switch and
run line (unswitched power) directly to the fixture (or just leave the switch
turned on). Optionally, you could put an X-10 button transmitter in place of the
conventional switch if you have neutral available at the switch.

Fixture wiring:

  If you have both unswitched (line) and switched power (load) at the fixture at
this point, wire the floodlights to load and neutral and the motion sensor to
line and neutral. Be careful to get this right as the PR511 instructions warn
not to connect an X-10 switch to the motion sensor to avoid damage.

  If you don't have load (switched power) available at the fixture, add an
inline dimmer module inside the fixture box between line and the floodlights.
Make sure to connect the motion sensor directly to line and neutral.

  Either way, take the unused blue wire exiting the motion sensor and wire an
outlet to it and neutral (and ground, especially if wiring as a GFI, as is most
likely required by the electrical code for outside outlets). Safest is to use an
exterior electrical box and cover (also probably required). This outlet will be
at the perfect location for controlling Christmas lights (great for Christmas
lights along the gutters) and is automation controlled.

I have several of these around the perimeter of my house, and use it with a
HomeVision controller.

Approximate costs:

$35        PR511 motion sensor floodlight assembly
$10        X-10 wall switch
$35        dimming fixture relay module (if required)
varies        automation controller (varies from mini timer up)
$45-$70 + controller

Quote:> Can it be connected to an x10 wall switch to be used as a normal light
> switch and still function as a security light regardless off the wall switch
> "position'?


1. X10 FloodCam Light Problem

I purchased 2 floodCam with a remote & receiver and transceiver.  I
can turn on & off the lights and cameras with remote, no problem.  But
when I walk in front of the FloodCam and the motion detector detects
movement (night) the lights & camera turn on (which is good).  The
OFF with the remote.

They will NOT turn off automatically. The timer delay & dark/light
sensors are set to the minimum. I have to turn them off manually
everytime the lights are triggered by the motion detector.

If I don't use a transceiver & remote the lights/camera work properly
but then I get two camera signals to a single receiver & the picture
looks distorted.

Please Help.


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