>I just picked up an Epson 2200 for photo printing and am having
>difficulty getting my head around some of the color management issues.
>Perhaps someone here could help me out. I'm using Windows XP and
>Photoshop 7. When I make prints, they come out significantly darker
>than what I'm seeing on my screen, as well as having less contrast and
>some solarization in darker areas.
If you're getting solarization then you have some sort of setup issue beyond
basic color management. You should be able to get a good monitor-print match
with that printer, I've found.
Quote:>First of all, I guess I need a critique of my process (which I'm sure
>is wrong). I calibrated my monitor with Adobe Gamma, and saved the
>profile as GoodSetting. Does this mean that I should use that setting
>as the workspace for all my images in Photoshop?
You should use it only as the monitor profile, nothing else. All it does is
tell the system how to translate the numbers in the image file to look "right"
on your monitor. To check if it's loaded properly as your default monitor
setting right-click on the empty destop, click "properties", then Settings,
then Advanced, then Color Mangement. "GoodSetting" should be the one
highlighted. By the way, it's a good idea to attach a date to the name for
when you update this later, I've found.
Don't use the monitor profile as your working space. I'd suggest using
AdobeRGB as a good basic all around space unless your input files come mostly
from a digital camera as jpegs, in which case sRGB is adequate, or unless
you're scanning saturated films, in which case something wider like Ektaspace
would be better. You can pick the working space you want with Edit > Color
Settings and change the RGB space in "Working Spaces".
>When I go to print, I use Print with Preview. I set Source Space to
>Document. I set Print Space to the Epson profile that matches the
>paper I'm using. I set intent to Perceptual and make sure Use Black
>Point Compensation is ticked.
>Then I click on Print > Properties. And set the options for quality,
>paper size, paper type, etc. Then I click on Advanced.
>Under Color Management, I make sure ICM is selected, then under ICC
>Profile, I select No Color Adjustment. Then I make the print which, as
>I said, are coming out too dark.
This looks ok except for "I set Source Space to Document" because this is
picking up your monitor profile, probably.
Here's something I'm working up for a class which may be of help, basically a
flow similar to what you did except I used soft proofing to choose the profile
early in the flow and check for gamut problems, then printed profile-to-profile
... hope it helps. You'll need access to the individual Epson paper profiles,
which you can load by running the PIM module off the 2200 installation disk.
Hope this helps. If it doesn't then you either have a bad monitor profile or
your printer is out of tolerance with the Epson profiles. Most likely it's the
Bill (see below)
Printing in Photoshop 7 with the Epson 2200.
There are at least 6 different ways to get good prints and probably 600 ways to
get bad ones. Here's ONE way that works for me, relying on "soft-proofing" to
get an idea ahead of time what the print should look like.
1) View > Proof setup > Custom and for "Profile" select the ICC file for the
paper you'll print on. For this example we'll pick "Premium Luster" so select
"SP2200 Premium Luster_PK" if using the Epson provided profiles. Make sure
"Preserve Color Numbers" is unchecked. For "Intent", you might want to go to
the Photoshop Help files and look up "rendering Intents" to understand what's
going on here, but for photos you'll want either "Perceptual" or "Relative
Colormetric". Then for "Simulate" click "Paper White" (if this is greyed out
then you don't have a printer paper profile loaded). This emulates the
brightness of the paper and since it's a lot less bright than your screen your
image will dim down a lot ("looks like it dies before your eyes", as one guru
put it :)
If you want to save this setting click the "save" button and give it a name and
next time you can just click on the name. Click OK when you're done here.
You can toggle this on and off with View > Proof Colors. You can also open a
duplicate copy and assign a different profile to it and toggle back and forth
to see the differerences between different profiles of the same paper or
profiles for different papers. To do this, click Window > Documents > New
Window and repeat the step for assigning a profile. To toggle back and forth
between windows type cntrl-Tab. I sometimes do this when I want to see the
differences between, say, the George Lepp 2200 profile vs the Epson profile for
the same paper, or the difference between rel col and perceptual rendering for
the same profile.
2) This is a good time to check for out of gamut warnings for this paper
profile, so click View > Gamut Warning. Hopefully nothing is out of gamut, or
it's in darker shadow areas that aren't as important.
3) Now that the soft proofing is set up (and you've resized the image to the
right size and done the required sharpening) you're ready to print. Click File
Quote:> Print With Preview, then check the "Show More Options" box. For "Source
Space" pick "Proof", which should say "Proof Setup: SP2200 Premium Luster_PK"
for our example paper. For "Print Space" pick the same profile in the
"Profile" drop down menu (this is important) and for Intent select either
Perceptual or Relative Colormetric (I generally prefer saturated colors and am
happy with "Perceptual" but try both if you like, especially if all your colors
are in gamut).
This takes care of Photoshop's part of the printing process, now you need to
set up the Epson properly to let Photoshop do the printing.
4) In this "Print" dialog box click "Page Setup" to get to the Epson controls.
In the next dialog box ("Page Setup") change the orientation and paper size,
if necessary, then click "Printer" to go to a new dialog box also called "Page
Setup", and click "Properties" to get to the "Epson Stylus Photo 2200
Properties" dialog box. You can also change paper size and orientation in this
For photos select either "Photo" or "Best Photo" in the "Quality Type" box.
For this example I choose "Best Photo". In the "Paper Options" section for
"Type" select "Premium Luster Photo Paper". Now click the "Advanced" option
and under the "Main" tab in "Color Management" select "ICM". When you do this
you'll see an "ICC Profile" section and in this select "No Color Adjustment".
This lets Photoshop do the mapping into the ICC profile instead of letting the
Epson printer software do it. If you let both try to color manage the print
the result usually has a strong magenta cast, so it's crucial to set this
correctly. I usually turn off "High Speed" under "Print Options" but it
doesn't seem to make much difference. You can also change the printer dpi
setting here in the "Paper & Quality Options" section. For Luster the default
for "Best Photo" is 2880 but you can go to 1440 and it will print faster with
little difference in quality.
OK, accept all these settings by clicking OK as you back out of the dialog
boxes, and you're ready to print. If your profiles for your monitor and your
printer are both good then you should get a good match between screen and
5) If you change paper types or profiles you'll need to carefully repeat these
steps. It's not uncommon to switch to a different paper and forget to change
the Epson driver setting or the Print Space Profile, I've found.