Very Computer

I've been browsing around this NG and around the web for a solution to
this particular problem:  

I have two pictures, a scanned photograph (4x6 picture scanned at 300dpi
on
a Canon FB600U USB scanner) and a picture taken with a Canon Powershot
S30
at full resolution (3 megapixel, 2something x 1something).

Scanned:  My wife's softball team, taken with (what appears to be) 400
ASA film. Picture was taken about 7:00pm in the summer so late day light
and was also taken with a flash.  The shirts, which are red, are fairly
bright
and the white lettering is actually ghosted since it's over exposed a
bit.

Digital:  Two people from my wife's softball team who weren't at the
final game.  The picture was taken at around 6:00 on an overcast day
without a flash.

Someone decided that since I know something about computers that I would
be the one to combine them.  

I've been able to use masking to remove the two missing players and paste
them in as a new layer on the team photo.  

I've also been able to play with burning and dodging to get the shirts
and letters to similar colors/brightness.

The two biggest problems I have:  free rotating and matching graininess.

The scanned picture is grainier than the digital picture.  I know there
are methods for removing some grain, but what's a good method for adding
or matching grain?  

Free rotate:  I had thought PSP7 had a free rotate feature (as in, grab
the selection and rotate).  Is this not the case?  It seems the only way
to do it is to specify values which is not as efficient, IMHO.

Any help on these? I'd be more interested in help with the grain issue.

Quote:

> I've been browsing around this NG and around the web for a solution to
> this particular problem:

> I have two pictures, a scanned photograph (4x6 picture scanned at 300dpi
> on
> a Canon FB600U USB scanner) and a picture taken with a Canon Powershot
> S30
> at full resolution (3 megapixel, 2something x 1something).

> Scanned:  My wife's softball team, taken with (what appears to be) 400
> ASA film. Picture was taken about 7:00pm in the summer so late day light
> and was also taken with a flash.  The shirts, which are red, are fairly
> bright
> and the white lettering is actually ghosted since it's over exposed a
> bit.

> Digital:  Two people from my wife's softball team who weren't at the
> final game.  The picture was taken at around 6:00 on an overcast day
> without a flash.

> Someone decided that since I know something about computers that I would
> be the one to combine them.

> I've been able to use masking to remove the two missing players and paste
> them in as a new layer on the team photo.

> I've also been able to play with burning and dodging to get the shirts
> and letters to similar colors/brightness.

> The two biggest problems I have:  free rotating and matching graininess.

> The scanned picture is grainier than the digital picture.  I know there
> are methods for removing some grain, but what's a good method for adding
> or matching grain?

I'm still looking for a more economical solution for you.

Quote:

> Free rotate:  I had thought PSP7 had a free rotate feature (as in, grab
> the selection and rotate).  Is this not the case?  It seems the only way
> to do it is to specify values which is not as efficient, IMHO.

--
Sally Beacham / www.dizteq.com
www.lvsonline.com / PSP, Filter Frenzy, Xara X
FilterMunky / www.psppower.com
reply to sbeachamATdizteq.com

To add grain to a selection -
Effects> Noise> Add...>
    Noise: %        * Uniform

Bob

Bob

--
http://www.ricksDFMCrun.org

Bob

From the menu:

Effects | Noise | Edge Preserving Smooth

I would 'guess' that 2 or 3 should be a nice amount to start with.  Ctrl+Z
to undo if you over/under do it till you get what you like.

Sally mentioned the deform tool to be able to rotate with the handles you
mentioned.  Sometimes I've had to use UNsharp to get my crispness back after
rotating (from the menu and from deform).  If you find you lost some
crispness after rotating:

Effects | Sharpen | Unsharp Mask

I usually start off with 1-60-5.  I don't understand those numbers a whole
lot except what I see (well the 2nd one is obvious [Strength], but the
others boggle me LOL).  The help file states that the first number (Radius)
usually works better at a lower number like 1(ish) for the web, and works
better at a higher number like 2(ish) for print.  That's my interpretation
anyway  8^)

HTH
Sherri

Quote:> http://groups.google.com/groups?selm=ak5ffk%242a97%241%40serv2.vsi.ru
> http://groups.google.com/groups?selm=3D6652D8.F7DA267A%40jasc.com

Close?

And unsharp mask produces similiar results as doing the things in this
article:
http://www.astropix.com/HTML/J_DIGIT/USM.HTM  ?

I was unable to even come close to the image on the right.  I used their
first 2 images, did my arithmetic (subtract, all channels, bias 0, divisor
1).....then lowered brightness/contrast on the blurred image and did
arithmetic again.  Then I undid my brightness/contrast, blurred it more and
did arithmetic....then lowered brightness/contrast on the blurred image and
did arithmetic.  I FINALLY tried unsharp, which came out better looking to
my eyes, but still didn't look like their end result.  Well at least I
understood my settings better to know how I was affecting what *S*

Sherri

Posted at:

http://home.attbi.com/~savoia/Image9.jpg (scanned)

http://home.attbi.com/~savoia/Image10.jpg (camera)

I wasn't extremely careful with the crop so I just
grabbed a couple of sections.

As far as merging the two images, I wish that I had
been there for the second set of picture taking.  The
remaining two ladies are not posed in ANY way close to
the other group making the merge even more difficult.

I can upload the complete originals if you want.

Thanks,
Rick

--
http://www.ricksDFMCrun.org

In my view Image9 is too green and Image10 is too red.
Without the full images, the following are just some rough
suggestions. Each image needs a small preliminary change with
Colors > Adjust > Red/Green/Blue. Then Image9 needs a contrast
fix with Colors > Histogram Functions > Histogram Adjustment.
Next remove grain with Effects > Noise > Edge Preserving Smooth
at 2. Do Effects > Sharpen > Sharpen a few times. Now you
can use your best friend, Effects > Enhance Photo > Manual
Color Correction. As the first step of this, duplicate Image9
and blur it so you can sample average colors from it. In
MCC select the top face of Image10 and set a color for it
by sampling the left face from the blurred version of Image9.
Having done this you needs to degrade Image10 to match
Image9. Duplicate the layer, add Noise, Gaussian Blur the
noise and set the Blend Mode to Luminance. Adjust layer
transparency to taste. After merging, use Histogram Adjustment
to match the contrast of Image10 to Image9. Depending on
exactly how you did all this you should have two images with
a much closer look and feel to each other. Now you can do a
second round of matching one image to the next before starting
to cut and paste things. Easy things like the shirts can be
matched later with Retouch in Color To Target mode. You'll
find it helpful to double the size of your images for the
cutting and pasting. Make sure you use layers for pasting so
you can adjust components of the image independently of each
other and blend them in nicely with a soft Eraser. After you
have everything to your satisfaction you can merge and resize
back down for final sharpening and tweaking.

Quote:> Thanks,
> Rick

> --
> http://www.ricksDFMCrun.org

Then realize that only gets you part way there. As Kris pointed
out the color temperature and contrast of the images don't match
well and will need to be corrected. To give good directions
regarding matching the colors, it would be best to see the
whole images. However if the images are very large, it probably
isn't necessary to see them at full scale. Images of approximately
800x600 pixels in size should plenty large enough to judge
color. If you want to post larger images that's fine too,

Here's a modest effort at matching color, contrast and grain.
http://abe.midco.net/bobdietz2/Temp/MatchGrain.jpg

Bob