IIGS monitor repair

IIGS monitor repair

Post by Slic » Tue, 01 Jan 2002 14:28:27



My IIGS monitor is fritzing out. It works for about half an hour, then the
screen goes blank, and the power light goes out. Pressing the power button
has no effect. IF I leave it turned off for an hour (or sometimes more) It
will turn on for a short time, then go out agin.

Anyways, I remember hearing a long time ago that TV repair shops can
repair computer monitors. That may not be true anymore, but was it true
for the IIGS's AppleColor RGB monitor? Although even if it is true, I'll
bet that they'd laugh at me if I brought it in.

The other thing I'd like to know is, what's the going price for those
monitors nowadays? I haven't been in the market for one since 1988, and
that was a Christmas present from my parents (4th grade, no less).  One
good thing I can say, that monitor's lasted longer than my Apple MultiScan
1705, it fritzed out after only 3 years, rather than 13.

 
 
 

IIGS monitor repair

Post by sirarl.. » Tue, 01 Jan 2002 16:47:11


It sounds like there is a faulty connection which completely separates
when the monitor heats up and expands. It could either be a loose
connector, a poor solder joint and/or a broken trace on the main board.

These monitors can be found on eBay for around $10-15. I believe someone
is offering IIgs monitors for shipping cost on
comp.sys.apple2.marketplace.

-+-+-+-

Rob McAllister

 
 
 

IIGS monitor repair

Post by Michael J. Mah » Fri, 04 Jan 2002 16:29:26



>My IIGS monitor is fritzing out. It works for about half an hour, then the
>screen goes blank, and the power light goes out. Pressing the power button
>has no effect. IF I leave it turned off for an hour (or sometimes more) It
>will turn on for a short time, then go out agin.

Before doing anything more radical, try replacing the fuse.  A fatigued
fuse can display this kind of symptom--for a while.  Then it just quits.

The behavior is clearly temperature-related, so spraying (selectively
with a narrow-nozzled tube) circuit cooler on various power-related parts
(since the power light itself goes out, it is almost certainly in the power
supply) _after_ it has cut out, to see what makes it work again when
cooled.  (Circuit cooler is a freon-like liquid which is a wonderful
insulator, so you don't need to worry about shocks or shorts--just
don't get things so cold that they condense a lot of water out of
the air.)

This procedure, BTW, is what a TV serviceman would do to localize
the intermittent open (as well as prodding with an insulated rod).

If you don't feel comfortable working on exposed electronics, don't
practice on monitors.  ;-)

-michael


 Home page:  http://members.aol.com/MJMahon/

 
 
 

IIGS monitor repair

Post by left_the_scen » Sat, 05 Jan 2002 02:05:05


> If you don't feel comfortable working on exposed electronics, don't
> practice on monitors.  ;-)

> -michael


>  Home page:  http://members.aol.com/MJMahon/

Also, you will see a large (most likely red, or maybe gray) wire running
from the side of the picture tube, where it connects via what looks like
a suction cup. Try prying up the suction cup with your fingers.

NO WAIT! Just Kidding!!!! DO NOT do that!

Be real careful inside monitors - the wire I just described can have
over 10,000 volts in it even well after the monitor has been turned off
and unplugged!!! It's low amperage, so it most likely won't kill, but it
sure does smart to get zapped with that much voltage!

 
 
 

IIGS monitor repair

Post by Slic » Sat, 05 Jan 2002 07:05:41





> >My IIGS monitor is fritzing out. It works for about half an hour, then the
> >screen goes blank, and the power light goes out. Pressing the power button
> >has no effect. IF I leave it turned off for an hour (or sometimes more) It
> >will turn on for a short time, then go out agin.

> Before doing anything more radical, try replacing the fuse.  A fatigued
> fuse can display this kind of symptom--for a while.  Then it just quits.

> The behavior is clearly temperature-related, so spraying (selectively
> with a narrow-nozzled tube) circuit cooler on various power-related parts
> (since the power light itself goes out, it is almost certainly in the power
> supply) _after_ it has cut out, to see what makes it work again when
> cooled.  (Circuit cooler is a freon-like liquid which is a wonderful
> insulator, so you don't need to worry about shocks or shorts--just
> don't get things so cold that they condense a lot of water out of
> the air.)

> This procedure, BTW, is what a TV serviceman would do to localize
> the intermittent open (as well as prodding with an insulated rod).

> If you don't feel comfortable working on exposed electronics, don't
> practice on monitors.  ;-)

> -michael


>  Home page:  http://www.veryComputer.com/

I hate to say it, but I've never done anything more complicated with the
hardware of my computer than installing the PC transporter card. I'm not
very good at hardware repair, and have no experience with
televisions/monitors.

How complicated is what you're describing? I've never opened the monitor
up, and I'm afraid I may not be able to get it back together. That
happened when I opened up my origional AppleDisk 3.5" disk drive after the
eject mechanism went nuts (constantly trying to eject the disk, not to
mention that when it first happened, it LAUNCHED the disk out of the dirve
and hit my cat)

anyways, your comment about if you don't feel comfterable working on
exposed electronics probably applies to me. I'm not a technition. I'm more
into the software end of computers, unless you think somebody who doesn't
know what their doing can do what you described.

--
I do NOT concent to recieve adverti*ts, special offerse, promotions,
OR any other form of unsolicited e-mail, especially commercial or bulk
e-mail. This overides all other forms of consent. My real email is
SLICK underscore(_) RCBD at HOTMAIL, a dot(.) COM

 
 
 

IIGS monitor repair

Post by Michael J. Mah » Mon, 07 Jan 2002 03:04:38





>> >My IIGS monitor is fritzing out. It works for about half an hour, then the
>> >screen goes blank, and the power light goes out. Pressing the power button
>> >has no effect. IF I leave it turned off for an hour (or sometimes more) It
>> >will turn on for a short time, then go out agin.

>> Before doing anything more radical, try replacing the fuse.  A fatigued
>> fuse can display this kind of symptom--for a while.  Then it just quits.

>> The behavior is clearly temperature-related, so spraying (selectively
>> with a narrow-nozzled tube) circuit cooler on various power-related parts
>> (since the power light itself goes out, it is almost certainly in the power
>> supply) _after_ it has cut out, to see what makes it work again when
>> cooled.  (Circuit cooler is a freon-like liquid which is a wonderful
>> insulator, so you don't need to worry about shocks or shorts--just
>> don't get things so cold that they condense a lot of water out of
>> the air.)

>> This procedure, BTW, is what a TV serviceman would do to localize
>> the intermittent open (as well as prodding with an insulated rod).

>> If you don't feel comfortable working on exposed electronics, don't
>> practice on monitors.  ;-)

>> -michael


>>  Home page:  http://members.aol.com/MJMahon/
>I hate to say it, but I've never done anything more complicated with the
>hardware of my computer than installing the PC transporter card. I'm not
>very good at hardware repair, and have no experience with
>televisions/monitors.

This is an issue, since working around high voltages and CRTs is best
learned with some expert guidance.

Quote:>How complicated is what you're describing? I've never opened the monitor
>up, and I'm afraid I may not be able to get it back together. That
>happened when I opened up my origional AppleDisk 3.5" disk drive after the
>eject mechanism went nuts (constantly trying to eject the disk, not to
>mention that when it first happened, it LAUNCHED the disk out of the dirve
>and hit my cat)

I'm sorry, but that image really made me laugh!  I'm sure it wasn't so
funny when it happened.  ;-)

(BTW, it sounds like the eject switch was stuck/shorted closed.)

Quote:>anyways, your comment about if you don't feel comfterable working on
>exposed electronics probably applies to me. I'm not a technition. I'm more
>into the software end of computers, unless you think somebody who doesn't
>know what their doing can do what you described.

In that case, I wouldn't recommend your working on the monitor.

Probably your best course of action is to get a replacement, which
as another poster noted, is available for the cost of shipping per
a recent CSA2.marketplace post.

If you have a friend who has some monitor/TV experience, perhaps
you could work out something to fix the one you have--perhaps as
a spare.

-michael


 Home page:  http://members.aol.com/MJMahon/

 
 
 

IIGS monitor repair

Post by Stephen Sha » Tue, 08 Jan 2002 00:51:32



> My IIGS monitor is fritzing out. It works for about half an hour, then the
> screen goes blank, and the power light goes out. Pressing the power button
> has no effect. IF I leave it turned off for an hour (or sometimes more) It
> will turn on for a short time, then go out agin.

Slick, open up the case. The power supply has about 5 components one of which
is a big white ceramic resistor (3.3 ohms in the 110V colour monitor) you will
probably find the solder on this resistor has crystallised. Unsolder the
resistor, scrape the leads with a Stanley knife (gently!). Clean the solder
pads
with some 200 grit wet and dry sandpaper. Resolder the resistor and voila!
If the resistor is OK. Then check the "kickstart" cap in the power supply by
substitution or the STKxxxx power supply chip for bad solder joints.
Good luck!

P.S. BE CAREFUL MONITORS ARE FULL OF DANGEROUS VOLTAGES!

Quote:

> Anyways, I remember hearing a long time ago that TV repair shops can
> repair computer monitors. That may not be true anymore, but was it true
> for the IIGS's AppleColor RGB monitor? Although even if it is true, I'll
> bet that they'd laugh at me if I brought it in.

> The other thing I'd like to know is, what's the going price for those
> monitors nowadays? I haven't been in the market for one since 1988, and
> that was a Christmas present from my parents (4th grade, no less).  One
> good thing I can say, that monitor's lasted longer than my Apple MultiScan
> 1705, it fritzed out after only 3 years, rather than 13.

--
The reason computer chips are so small is computers don't eat so much.
 
 
 

IIGS monitor repair

Post by Stephen Sha » Sun, 13 Jan 2002 00:01:23



>> If you don't feel comfortable working on exposed electronics, don't
>> practice on monitors.  ;-)

>> -michael


>>  Home page:  http://members.aol.com/MJMahon/

> Also, you will see a large (most likely red, or maybe gray) wire running
> from the side of the picture tube, where it connects via what looks like
> a suction cup. Try prying up the suction cup with your fingers.

> NO WAIT! Just Kidding!!!! DO NOT do that!

> Be real careful inside monitors - the wire I just described can have
> over 10,000 volts in it even well after the monitor has been turned off
> and unplugged!!! It's low amperage, so it most likely won't kill, but it
> sure does smart to get zapped with that much voltage!

Slick might wind up with an Afro if he does touch that wire.

--
All extremists should be taken out and shot!

 
 
 

IIGS monitor repair

Post by Stephen Sha » Sun, 13 Jan 2002 00:12:03



> My IIGS monitor is fritzing out. It works for about half an hour, then the
> screen goes blank, and the power light goes out. Pressing the power button
> has no effect. IF I leave it turned off for an hour (or sometimes more) It
> will turn on for a short time, then go out agin.

Slick, open up the case. The power supply has about 5 components one of which
is a big white ceramic resistor (3.3 ohms in the 110V colour monitor) you will
probably find the solder on this resistor has crystallised. Unsolder the
resistor, scrape the leads with a Stanley knife (gently!). Clean the solder
pads
with some 200 grit wet and dry sandpaper. Resolder the resistor and voila!
If the resistor is OK. Then check the "kickstart" cap in the power supply by
substitution or the STKxxxx power supply chip for bad solder joints.
Good luck!

P.S. BE CAREFUL MONITORS ARE FULL OF DANGEROUS VOLTAGES!

Quote:

> Anyways, I remember hearing a long time ago that TV repair shops can
> repair computer monitors. That may not be true anymore, but was it true
> for the IIGS's AppleColor RGB monitor? Although even if it is true, I'll
> bet that they'd laugh at me if I brought it in.

> The other thing I'd like to know is, what's the going price for those
> monitors nowadays? I haven't been in the market for one since 1988, and
> that was a Christmas present from my parents (4th grade, no less).  One
> good thing I can say, that monitor's lasted longer than my Apple MultiScan
> 1705, it fritzed out after only 3 years, rather than 13.

--
The reason computer chips are so small is computers don't eat so much.
 
 
 

IIGS monitor repair

Post by UR Lookin AtE » Sun, 13 Jan 2002 13:04:20


ha!


> >> If you don't feel comfortable working on exposed electronics, don't
> >> practice on monitors.  ;-)

> >> -michael


> >>  Home page:  http://members.aol.com/MJMahon/

> > Also, you will see a large (most likely red, or maybe gray) wire running
> > from the side of the picture tube, where it connects via what looks like
> > a suction cup. Try prying up the suction cup with your fingers.

> > NO WAIT! Just Kidding!!!! DO NOT do that!

> > Be real careful inside monitors - the wire I just described can have
> > over 10,000 volts in it even well after the monitor has been turned off
> > and unplugged!!! It's low amperage, so it most likely won't kill, but it
> > sure does smart to get zapped with that much voltage!

> Slick might wind up with an Afro if he does touch that wire.

> --
> All extremists should be taken out and shot!

 
 
 

1. IIgs RGB monitor repair question.

Anyone know what would cause a IIgs RGB monitor to slowly increase in
brightness\contrast?  What components may be bad?
When it's first turned on the display looks normal but as it warms up the
brightness and contrast slowly increase to the point where it's too bright.
I even have the brightness and contrast dialed all the way down.

-Rob

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